Moving Myanmar

Modern history shows that Myanmar is often under the control of the person/group with the strongest arm who has the most powerful friends. Being predominantly Theravadan Buddhist, the population understands that there is suffering and to be content with what one has. This may be due to a deep spiritual conviction, or it may be the direct experience of wanting something else bringing about more suffering. The idea of military autocratic rule, may, by modern Western standards seem unusual but it is actually just history repeating. Patience and understanding is useful as the autocratic military government ready themselves and the people for a functioning democratic Myanmar.

The locals do their best to understand and adapt to the current ruler‘s rules -- then get on with the business of living. On the ground, the society appears to be functioning. Westerners are always warmly sought out, and in places visited peace and harmony was present. So too was thriving street vendors selling everything from souvenirs, freshly cooked delights, prepackaged nibbles to 1 litre recycled water bottles now containing petrol.

Outside of Yangon, Mandalay and work in progress new capital city, Naypyidaw, the country is mostly agriculturally based centred around small villages. The established population is composed of over 35 ethnicities. 75% of the population is said to not have a formal qualification, their education taking place in the family business or farm from a young age. The average life expectancy is 59.

Yangon is the largest city and the former capital although the destination is Mandalay, the second most populated city. 

If wealth is measured by how many others are affected positively by our presence or actions, then the organisation that brings me here is wealthy beyond words.  This small 100 novice-centred monastery 10 years ago has grown into Phaung Daw Oo Monastic High School (PDO) -- a multi-focused action centre for less suffering.

PDO caters during a school term for up to 300 live-in novices, houses up to 1,000 orphans or rural borders, housing some teachers (monk and lay), and educates up to 7,000 students per day. The students are taught in two shifts, 7.30am-12noon and 12.30-5pm. The teachers are enthusiastic, hard working and include many volunteers. The education for all is provided free and funded by donations year to year.

PDO has an onsite health clinic that provides free consultations and free basic medicines. An outreach health team travels to remote villages providing education, testing and basic treatment for the three prevalent diseases Malaria, TB and HIV. Through the clinic and outreach programs, PDO promotes awareness of sexual health including preventing sexually transmitted diseases and avoiding unwanted pregnancies. 

Visiting during the summer break, the school schedule and population was light. Teachers from around the country were attending a live-in training course so had 6.30-7.30am meditation and yoga added to their daily schedule.

Year 8-9s were attending a summer school Fast Track two hour daily program where classes are taught in English. They had meditation and stories about the Buddha added to their program between 10-11am. And they had Questions. Lots of Questions.

Novice monks, who weren't involved in carpentry, mud-brick building, holidaying or other useful activities were treated to meditation, yoga and English-spoken Buddhist teachings (Dharma) between 11am-12noon. Myanmar novice monks/nuns practise Dana. Between 7.30-10.30am every morning, it was their task to take their begging bowls around the local village. One way for lay people (householders, families or businesses) to support those involved with spiritual practise is to provide food that is surplus to their needs but essential for life on a daily basis. The village gets daily practise at compassion (kindness to one's self and others). The novice experiences direct experience in the benefit of Humility, Gratitude, while slowly understanding Karma (Cause and Effect) and the Interconnectedness of All Things. The rude and lazy Novice soon learns the direct relationship with one‘s actions and the emptiness of one‘s food bowl. The greedy Novice soon learns Contentment is a more secure way of receiving repeat invitations and large serving spoons. The unfocussed or Proud Novice learns the difference between starving and Joyful Toil. The Novices remain interned until they are 20, and then each individual chooses to take the Monk or Nun path, or return to their families and lay lifestyles.

Teachers, Office Staff and other interested people had their nightly 6-7pm Conversation Class supplemented with Yoga, Meditation, Dharma and a little Ayurveda. Always a challenge was to finish the written work before sunset as the electricity needed for the fan and lights frequently became unavailable. Once in darkness and without a fan to keep the air flowing, the mosquitoes would arrive joyfully to feast excitedly.

Most interest across the three scholastic classes was generated by the topic of The Three Ways (or Schools of Teachings). Theravada (or School of The Elders/School of the First Ones) being the first teachings by the Buddha remained principally in Southern India before migrating. It often doesn‘t include reference to the other two (Northern Indian) schools that came later in Buddha’s 45 years of teaching: Mahayana (Great Way) or Vajrayana (Diamond Way). Myanmar evolved its Buddhism from Sri Lanka which evolved it‘s Buddhism from India over the 2,500 years since Buddha Shakyamuni walked the Earth. Everyone enjoyed the PDO Word Finder* made for local conditions for last class revision.

Then in a blink of an eye, the month was over for this tourist. Many lessons were learnt and they will unfold with the passage of time. Time passes very quickly when involved in meaningful toil and one enjoys what one is doing. There is always much more that can be done on a personal level, when the mind is willing and the body able. The usual Five Disturbing Emotions (Anger, Desire, Pride, Envy - underwritten by Ignorance) are always present and compete for the unenlightened mind‘s attention every moment, preventing us from being present. In comparison, PDO stands fast, seeking out clearly their society’s needs and embracing these challenges as another thing to be done. It‘s success and usefulness is beyond calculation but is easily felt on the ground. PDO is a credit to it‘s principal, the team of people assembled and the many Western Supporters helping to bring alive and maintain this vision.

It has been a privilege to have been in such fine company, an honour to serve and humbled by the sheer magnitude of benefit PDO is generating while making it look so easy. It never is easy of course, just the result of noble minds with noble motivations aiming for a shared goal of less suffering, then doing it. 

Thankyou for having me at your place.

Love and best wishes, Carey.